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| - Description Winegrowing region -
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| The Rheingau is a wonderful region.
Nearly 1000 kilometres from Basel to the Northsea the Rhine flows
uninterrupted in a northerly direction.
With one short diversion: near Wiesbaden the river
suddenly bends in almost a right angle to the west, turning again
only 30 kilometres further on at Rüdesheim to continue its
northerly flow. A whim of nature which geologically is easily explained:
The slopes of the Rheingau, part of the foothills
of the Taunus range running from east to west obstruct the river´s
flow forcing it to change direction. A whim of nature which created
one of the most enchanting spots on earth one could imagine: the
Rheingau.
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| From the right bank of the Rhine it
stretches in a gentle ascent to the thickly wooded northern slopes
of the Rheingau hills. An area hardly more than two to three kilometres
wide and slightly over 30 kilometres in length. This is the home
of the Rheingau Riesling considered by many to be the finest white
wine in the world.
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Thanks to the unique
climatic conditions and geology here on the 50th parallel north
even lemons and almonds can ripen.
But also thanks to the hard working and traditionalism
of its people who soon realised that in the long run only quality
succeeds.
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For the sake of quality we and our collegues
take great pains even putting up with financial disadvantages:
-- For example for almost 500 years they have continued to cultivate
the traditional vine varieties Riesling and Blauer Spätburgunder
not changing over to the higher yielding new crossings.
-- They have voluntarily reduced the already small acreage of vineyards
( a total of only 3000 hectare ) and by appropriate pruning of their
vineyards.
--Voluntarily restricted fertilising to the absolute minimum required
in order to also maintain an intact environment for future generations.
-- Voluntarily accept the highest must weight requirements in Germany
laid down for this northern area. Such quality consciousnesss has
a long tradition here in the Rheingau. Also we shouldn´t forget
the monks who lived and worked here in the vineyard. For many centuries
the monks took over the pioneering work in the Rheingau. The monasteries
of Eberbach and Johannisberg became show places and introduced system
to cultivation, winemaking and marketing.
Revolutionary inventions and discoveries were made in the Rheingau
which were and still are of importance to viticulture throughout
the world: such as the Spätlese or the Auslese, the Cabinet
cellar, the bottling of wine and many others.
Today practically every self-employed wine grower in the Rheingau
if fully trained as either a winegrower´s assistant, master
winegrower or viticultural engineer. Which means that Rheingau winegrowers
possess the highest professional qualifications in Germany if not
worldwide.
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- 500 Years of Riesling in the
Rheingau - A vine varietal with a colourful history -
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The origin of the small
berried Riesling remains as much a mystery as the origin of it´s
name. First documentary mentioned is it´s planting in the
year 1435. A certain Klaus Steinfisch noted in his accounts at the
time the expenditure of 22 Solidi ‘ for Riesling vines to
be planted in the vineyards’. Prior to this as for example
documented by Kloster Eberbach there had been attempts over many
years to replace the predominant red vines with white.
The reason being the monastery must obviously have experienced difficulty
in competing with French red wines in the Cologne wine market. The
only alternative one saw was to offer a good white wine with pronounced
regional character.
In the early 17th century a real demand for Riesling
developed:
-- 1601: The St. Stephanstift of Mainz decreed that all uncultivated
areas or plots for replanting within their Schierstein vineyards
had to be planted with Riesling.
-- 1672: The St Clara Monastery of Mainz replaced the red vines
by Riesling on their Geisenheim estates
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The planting of the upto
that time popular high yielding white variety Elbling became virtually
prohibited. The final breakthrough for the Riesling was achieved
when in 1716 the abbey of Fulda purchased the war ravaged Johannisberg
monastery and had the present day castle built on the ruins. The
vineyards were also replanted during the following five years. In
1803 at any rate the last cellarmaster of the abbey the Benedictine
Father Otto Staab wrote : “no other grape variety except the
Riesling grape may be used for winemaking in the entire Rheingau.
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Riesling accounted for 80 percent of all plantings by the second
half of the last century.
But then a difficult period followed both for the Riesling and the
Rheingau. Through degeneration the Riesling yield dropped continuously
till it reached only 15 hectolitres per hectare. In addition there
were a number of poor vintages. The Riesling proved like other varieties
non resistant to phylloxera and oidium both of which had been brought
in from America.
Furthermore after the First World War wines with low acidity suddenly
became popular a phenomenon repeated following the Second World
War. Around 1930 Riesling plantings fell to their lowest in the
Rheingau with only 57 percent.
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The outbreak of phylloxera and oidium
led to the establishment of the School and Institue of Research
in Geisenheim in 1872. Here they succeeded in cultivating phylloxera
resistant rootstock of American origin following several years of
research onto which they grafted scions of Riesling from German
stock. The increase in productivity was achieved by so called Riesling
clones i.e. individual vine propagation from especially high yielding
plants. The Rheingau which had again increased its Riesling percentage
by 1986 to over 80 % percent as a major customer.
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| - Record Prices for Riesling Rarities
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In November 1987 a Riesling
from the Rheingau made headlines worldwide: At one of the regularly
conducted auctions in Kloster Eberbach a unique bottle of
1735 “Johannisberger” from the private cellar of the
Count von Schönborn achieved a price of € 27,098.47 (
DM 53.000,-- ).
This was alleged to be a new world recond for white wines. The previous
record had been held by an 1893 “Neroberger Trockenbeerenauslese
Cabinet” with “only”
€ 17.895,28 ( DM 35.000,-- ) followed by an 1893 “Steinberger
Riesling Trocken-
beerenauslese Cabinett” at € 10.737,13 ( DM 21.000,--
) and a 1921 “Erbacher Honigberg Riesling Goldbeerenauslese
also at 10.737,13 (DM 21.000,--).
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Naturally such figures raise a number of
questions such as: which wines will keep so long? Or: how should one
store a wine to ensure it keeping so long.
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A wine is a living thing
and behaves as such. It is created it develops it ages and it passes
away. After it´s creation (pressing and fermentation) the
wine initially shows all immaturity of its youth which it gradually
loses.
One says the wine is maturing i.e. it´s characteristics
develop according to it´s individual nature. Continuing to
mature it eventually reaches it´s optimum. Once it´s
prime is passed the wine gradually loses body. It develops signs
of old age (becoming maderised and darker in colour) and eventually
dies. As with other organisms this process can also vary considerable
with wines.
According to certain conditions some wines should be drunk after
three or four years, others should be stored for 10 to 15 years
before being drunk whilst the third will remain drinkable for well
over 100 years.
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The following rule generally
applies: wines with a high acidity are especially suitable for long
storage whilst wines with low acidity should be drunk when young.
This applies equally to Riesling and to the Spätburgunder.
In addition: the higher it´s quality category ( Kabinett,
Spätlese, Auslese etc ) the longer it will keep. For the higher
extract with a substantial proportion of acidity and sweetness guarantee
a long wine life..
Rich in extract Rieslings achieve their optimal flavour
for Spätlesen generally between 5 to 15 years, Auslesen between
10 to 50 years and for higher qualities such as Beeren - and Trockenbeerenauslesen
between 20 to 100 years.
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Another style is provided
by the Riesling Eisweine. Thanks to their high acidity and high
extract content they retain their fruit and youthful vigour for
a long time. Though they may be drunk whilst young they age much
more slowly than normally harvested wines. Their keeping potential
is estimated to be twice to three times as long though final judgement
can only be made by following generations because larger quantities
of Eiswein have only be kept since the 1960´s.
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However one should not be misled by
the initially mentioned record making wines. The really great wines
are very seldom harvested. A Kabinett or a good Qualitätswein
from a vintage with pronounced acidity will also keep well and has
the advantage that everyone can afford it. It is worthwile and provides
a lot of pleasure watching it develop over a number of years. Though
such wines may be drunk young their true charm really shows to advantage
after 3 to 4 years. In any case it is certainly worthwile asking
the winegrower about its keeping potential when purchasing his wine.
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