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| - The work of a winegrower is as hard
and varied as ever - |
| The general idea of a winegrower’s
everyday work could hardly be further from reality. Surely nowadays
not even the steeper vineyards of the Rheingau have to be cultivated
with hoe, pick and spade. There are specially built narrow gauge
tractors with every imaginable attachment for this purpose.
Nevertheless the winegrower’s responsibilities involve just
as much hard work all year round as in the past.
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This applies especially
to that most idealised activity in folksongs and romantic films
the harvest. Generally this begins about the 15th October and lasts
well into November. In the mornings it can be bitterly cold then
and frequently it rains at this time of year. Instead of colourful
traditional costumes and joyful songs as seen in the films rubber
boots, numb fingers and aching backs are the norm.
Even mechanization has not changed that much except
that the winegrowers now try to manage with less help to reduce
costs in order to offer the wine at more reasonable prices. The
winter months previously at least a short period of rest are now
used to maintain and service machines and equipment. The first pruning
starts in early January until March.
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The yearly workload in
the vineyards involves between 580 to 600 hours per hectare fully
mechanized. That does not involve all the other work from pressing
the grapes to the final delivery of the wine. For the wine grower
the wine tasting is basically a promotional activity which also
means work.
But precisely that is the pride of the family business that we are
totally responsible for our own product. That includes all operation
from planting the vine through to pressing the grapes and finally
the bottling of the wine. Also the marketing is our own responsibility
and in the respect it is only the quality of the product which can
help.
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The costs of cultivation
plays a very important roll for the marketing.
On level sites of sufficient size the costs are about
€ 7.669,39 ( DM 15.000,-- ) per hectare. On difficult steep
sites the costs may rise to € 15.338,76 ( DM 30.000,-- ) per
hectare. Based on an average yield of 10.000 bottles per hectare
this means that the work in the vineyards alone costs € 1,53
( DM 3,-- ) per bottle.
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This calculation applies to almost every
winegrower in the Rheingau. Most of these are like us family businesses
who are growing cultivating and selling their own wine.
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- Ecologically friendly method
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The principle with fertilization and
pest control is no more than absolutely necessary.
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For over 1200 years wine
has been grown in the Rheingau. On prime sites almost continously.
Of course it goes without saying that every winegrower with a sense
of responsibility takes good care to maintain the health and continued
fertility of his vineyards.
He knows that the soil and the wholesomeness of his wines are his
own his children and grand children most important investment. Therefore
with mineral fertilization and pest control the following principle
applies: as little as possible and no more and no more frequently
than absolutely necessary.
Statistics show that only a third of the amount of fertilizer and
pesticides are now used compared to 10 years ago with a continued
downward trend. Even so fertilization is indispensable.
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The vine extracts considerable
amounts of nutrients from the soil ( nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium,
magnesium, calcium) which in part nourish the yeast and are also
absorbed as the highly valued minerals in the wine.
Through regular soil analyses the quantity of mineral fertilizer
is adjusted to the actual requirement of the vine and provided at
the right time i.e. at the beginning of the growing season. In addition
organic fertilizer is spread on the vineyards to break up the soil
and maintain its biological balance.
Since the most popular stable manure is no longer available in
sufficient quantity green cover planted between alternate vineyard
rows as well as foliage and vine pruning provide the organic substances
(humus). Green cover also protects from erosion and prevents the
soil from compacting under mechanical cultivation of the vineyards.
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Sex traps for pest control
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The purpose of pest control is to protect
the vines from parasites harmful fungi and competing weeds. It ensures
a good harvest of sound grapes. Thanks to improved application techniques
nowadays pest control can be accurately directed with considerably
reduced quantities.
Also fairly exact methods of forecasting infestation were developed
so that only when necessary action is taken against parasites. With
the use of odoriferous sexual substance traps insecticides could
be considerably reduced. Therefore the males of certain vine insects
(i.e. the grape berry moths) are confused and lured away by synthetically
produced female odoriferous substances so that eggs laid by the
females remain mostly unfertilised. This combat method is harmless
for bees, non-injurios to beneficial insects and not damaging to
the environment) has a high degree of efficiency of about 80 percent.
The winegrowers hope that preventing the grape berry moth from
their sexual activity will not antagonise preservationists. Fungus
infection has also been reduced by a number of natural measures
such as wider spaced vine rows, allowing more light to the vines
and cultivation of resistant vine clones. But for some fungus diseases
prophylactic spraying is still necessary. Particular attention is
taken that this does not occur later than mid August i.e. at least
two months before the harvest begins. That leaves sufficient time
for the pesticides to be almost completely washed off and neutralised
by the rain and dew. Nevertheless small amounts may get into the
most but these amounts are far below the maximum permissible limit.
Through fermentation they are totally destroyed so no trace remains
in the wine. The Rheingau winegrowers have the additional advantage
of the nearby Research Institute in Geisenheim helping them in the
development of ecological winegrowing. The excellent advisory service
and the frequently offered seminars by the Rheingauer Weinbauverband
ensure that the Rheingau winegrowers are amongst the most advanced
in the world in the sphere of environmental preservation.
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| - Wine and health - |
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There is a saying in the
Rheingau that there are more old wine drinkers than old doctors.
This sounds banal but there is much truth in it which has even been
scientifically proved. Justus von Liebig wrote as early as 1844:
its hard to believe how many quantities of wine are consumed by
people of all ages on the Rhine without any noticeable detriment
to the health of the spirit and body. Blessed by nature gout and
stone illnesses are nowhere less known than in this Rheingau region.
In earlier centuries wine was drunk as medicine and drug at the
same time. The wine played an important role in the social life
of the people, in their religions and rites. In ancient Mesopotania
the letters for wine and for life were identical. And Saint Augustinus
( A.D. 354 – 430 ) confirmed: in many cases the human being
needs wine.
The wine strengthens the weak stomach, refreshes the
exhausted strength, heals the wounds of the body and soul, brings
joy and provokes the desire for conversation. What happens that
wine has such a positive effect on our body and psyche? The many
aromatic substances in the wine are carried through the nose to
the sensitive nerve cells of the mid-brain which are directly connected
to the limbic system from where as it is known the vegetative nervous
system as well as emotions and instincts are controlled. Enjoyed
in limited quantities wine increases the self confidence accelerates
the spirit and increases creativity. At the same time discontent
fear and inhibitions are diminished.
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Louis Pasteur ( 1822-1895 ) has proved
that wine has a germ killing effect. He established that this is
not caused by alcohol but by tannin, colouring and the organic acids.
But the Roman military bureaucracy knew this already for almost
everywhere where the Romans built fortifications they also planted
vineyards. During the past 15 years research has been carried out
that moderate consumption of wine decreases the probability of a
heart attack.
Perhaps the alcohol affects the metabolic process, alters the
blood lipids and reduces the danger of a heart attack. Furthermore
it is assumed that there is a substance in the wine which has a
positive effect on the circulatory system of the heart.
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The polyphenolic substances
( tannin and colouring matters ) increase the porosity of the capillary
blood vessels. Substances similar to vitamins in the wine could
also explain the positive effects on colds.
Of course this has not finally be proven. But Prof.
Kliewe of Mainz has definitely found out that the inner walls of
the blood vessels of the elderly wine drinkers were as soft, flexible
and without signs of calcification as only found in the young.
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Wine enlarges the blood vessels, regulates
and stabilizes the blood pressure and improves the oxygen supply
to the organs.
Also proven is a prophylactic effect against arteriosclerosis so
that one can say to the best of ones knowledge: wine consumed in
moderation increases the life expectancy.
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| - Harmony between wine and food -
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Wines from the Rheingau are generally
suited to the accompaniment of food.
Lighter food and drinks are the current trend. Wines from the Rheingau
are thanks to their low alcohol level and particularly because of
their fruity acidity an excellent accompaniment to a good meal.
They should have been stored for at least two years to fully complement
the individual dishes.
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Harmony between wine and food can be
achieved by two means.
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When the flavours are similar
they will complement each other anyway. But when the flavours differ
the intensity has to be balanced out. That is why the wine must
be matched with the strongest flavoured product in a dish. The sweetness
and acidity of the wine and the food should be balanced. This is
the second most important rule in the combination of food and wine.
The French claim ´white meat- white wine and red meat - red
wine´ this is certainly simple but also easily disproved.
The main course generally consists of meat, vegetables and gravy.
But only very rarely does the meat tastes more intense than the
gravy.
Therefore when the gravy dominates the wine must be
matched with the gravy and not with the meat. In preparing the base
for the gravy the process of roasting or reducing produces a light
sweetness through caramelisation. Also crème, crème
fraîche or double cream have a slightly sweet flavour. If
a wine with low acidity is chosen it can be a dry one. If however
a wine is chosen with a pronounced acidity than it should have a
delicate sweetness. Here we recommend a semi-dry Rheingau Riesling
or a dry Rheingau Spätburgunder. Also a Rheingau Riesling may
be chosen if the dark sauce is made with red wine without spoiling
the harmony.
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Important is the stronger
the flavour of the dish the higher should be the alcohol level of
the wine. Kabinett wines are light Qualitätsweine and in particular
Spätlesen have a higher alcohol level. From France comes the
claim that salads and wine do not go together. Surely that is right
if one uses too much vinegar. However if one mixes a good Sherry
or balm-vinegar and a good olive or nut-oil together on the bases
1 : 3 than a semi-dry Riesling makes a perfect complement. This
applies in particular if some rendered bacon, poultry or braised
poultry liver is served with the salad. Brawn, pâté,
terrines and mousse made of liver or meat are likewise complemented
by a semi-dry full bodies Rheingau Riesling.
The fine fruit acidity of the Riesling takes away
the fat from the tongue and allows these heavy dishes to appear
lighter and more subtle. With the dessert there are five products
which a less suited to the wine: vanilla, cinnamon ( dominant flavour
) kiwi, mocca and citrus fruits. Otherwise many types of fruit have
a similar acidity to that of the Rheingau Riesling which therefore
go excellent with such fruit desserts.
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For example an apple tart shows the
harmony between dessert and wine very well. Roll out short pastry
very thinly top it with slices of apples sprinkle a little amount
of sugar and finally add some butter on top. Bake in an oven until
the sugar is caramelised. The warm apple tart is then served with
a medium sweet Riesling Spätlese. .Firstly taste the wine and
then the apple tart etc.
Since the tart is slightly sweeter than the wine the wine will
taste less sweet . The acidity is more pronounced. Those who have
tried this will hardly ever want coffee with apple tart again. As
you see the Rheingau wines both red as well as the white accompany
food well: they have a refreshing and stimulating effect emphasise
the subtleties of the dishes extremely well are easily digested
and provide perfect harmony in complementing many dishes.
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